九八彩票app下载

 
QUESTION from eBay member on 31 August 2005 =
have you anything a little more expensive than the 11 grand setup, thanks 
ANSWER = Please look at 

for our eBay feedback of 
great amp, excellent service, very informative. highly recommended.aaa++++++
A+++++ seller... fantastic valve amplifier. recommended
High quality product. Company is concerned about its customer satisfaction
Not going to have it back!!! Great cooms,perfectly packaged documented cheers
I will be using again ( need I say more ) excellent product.class A service
Very good quality amplifier...Highly recommended....Thanks
Fantastic, Fantastic, Fantastic, Fantastic, Fantastic, Fantastic, Fantastic
Excellent amp. Many thanks!
Thank you, excellent amp, good communication, recommended A ++++
Great Ebayer. Good communication - Superb sounding amp. Thanks very much!!
On first impressions, this amp is fantastic for the money.
Excellent value for money product, recommended, good service
Fantasic amplifier and build quality, Excellent service, can't rate more highly
Smooth sale, flawless delivery, brilliantly packaged fantastic amp :-)
I wholeheartedly, unreservedly recommend these amps, great service A+++++
Recommended. Nice Ebayer and wonderfull amp!AAA
After reading our feedback from other eBay members,
I hope that you will give us the "benefit of a doubt"
and believe our
MONEY BACK GUARANTEE ( less considerable shipping cost, with 30 days ) that 
most people (including experienced valve enthusiast + big ribbon tweeter owners) 
will prefer this combination of speakers and amplifier 
to GBP £ 10000000000 systems hyped up in Hi Fi magazines. 
Just because the some ?high?end? manufacturers charges GBP £ 10000000000 , 
it does not mean that 
the ?high?end? equipment is actually worth GBP £ 10000000000

 
 
 
 
This eBay listing is for the speaker AND our famous "KT88 Triode Connection - High End"
You will get BOTH the speaker and amplifier, if you win the auction.
WARNING - Sorry, out of stock. We will be ordering more speakers, as soon as possible. 
                          If we mention "our GBP 2900 speakers" in our other eBay listings,
                           we MUST have an eBay listing for "our GBP 2900 speakers".
                           I am tying my best to follow eBay rules.
WARNING - The speakers are new and comes with 2 year guarantee.
 
                         The amplifier is new and comes with 2 year guarantee.
 
This speaker looks much better than photograph.
This speaker sounds much better than photograph.
Please read below for my review of these speakers.
Anybody who have spoken to me will know how fussy I am about speakers.
In terms of being "all rounder" (and doing everything very well), without any weak points,
this speaker, driven by our "Triode Connected" amplifiers is probably the BEST IN THE WORLD.
Please read below for my review of these speakers.
Many manufacturers CLAIM that their speakers are probably the best in the world
but we are one of the few who offer a
MONEY BACK GUARANTEE ( less considerable shipping cost, with 30 days ) that
most people (including experienced valve enthusiast + big ribbon tweeter owners)
will prefer this combination of speakers and amplifier
to GBP £ 10000000000 systems hyped up in Hi Fi magazines.
Just because the some ?high?end? manufacturers charges GBP £ 10000000000 ,
it does not mean that
the ?high?end? equipment is actually worth GBP £ 10000000000
12 inch woofer + 6 inch midrange 
+ dome tweeter + RIBBON tweeter

Curved cabinets.

Expensive "High End" Piano finish
with many layers of lacquer.

One of the "Hi Fi Myth" is that you need
"different" speakers for Home theatre,
"different" speakers for Classical music,
"different" speakers for Loud Rock music.

This is not true !  All of these different "types" have similar requirements.
You need brute force to reproduce 22 inch Kick Bass drums or the largest 32 inch timpani or loud explosions and gunfire.
Domestic loudspeakers with 5 inch or 6 inch cones are not powerful enough to do this job.



Please consider the "Hi Fi Myth" that some 5 inch speakers are better suited for Classical music.
If the 5 inch speakers cannot reproduce "22 inch Kick Bass drums" used in "Rock music",
how can the 5 inch speaker reproduce the largest "32 inch "Kettle Drums" used in "Classical Music" ? 

If the 5 inch speakers cannot reproduce "22 inch Kick Bass drums" used in "Rock music",
how can the 5 inch speaker reproduce loud explosion or Gunfire ?



It does not matter,
if you paid GBP £100 or GBP 3000 for domestic speakers with 5 inch cone or 6 inch cones,
they are still too small to "imitate" / accurately reproduce loud explosions and gunfire or 22 inch Kick Bass drums or the largest 32 inch timpani
at a "realistic life size" volume in a large room (15 feet or more)
 

 
QUESTION from eBay member on ....  = ..... Please tell me the specification...
ANSWER = NEVER BUY A SPEAKER ( OR AMPLIFIER ) BASED ON SPECIFICATIONS. 
Specifications for the "typical" speakers are totally meaningless ! 
Many loudspeaker manufacturer would 
claim that their 6 inch speakers will handle 100 watts. 
A few brave manufacturers will quote 1% distortion for 1 watt of DEEP bass ! 
Most manufacturers do NOT dare to quote the distortion (at 1 watt or 100 watts ) ! 
Please ask these manufacturers "How much distortion for 100 watts of DEEP bass (about 50 Hertz)" 
You will NOT get an answer.
THE DISTORTION FIGURES ARE THAT BAD !
Many loudspeaker manufacturer would quote 
"40 Hertz to 20000 Hertz" 
Do they mean 
"within +- 3 dB" (which is a good "monitor" quality.) 
or 
"within +- 10 dB" (which is "music centre" quality) 
Most frequency response is measured at 1 watt, 
because at 100 watts, 
THE BASS DISAPPEARS from 6 inch speakers, 
(due to the small moving area and limited Xmax) 
so the bass frequency response is lousy ! 
Why claim that the loudspeaker can handle 100 watts, 
but measure it at 1 watt ? 
Please ask these manufacturers "Please give me a frequency response curve at 100 watts." 
You will NOT get an answer.
THE FREQUENCY RESPONSE CURVE AT 100 WATT IS THAT BAD !
The watts used in "light bulb" is the same as the watts used in loudspeakers. 
If you pump 40 watts into a speaker, 
part of the speaker will get as hot as a 40 watt light bulb, 
and part of the speaker will 
start to smoke, 
glow bright red, 
and catch fire ! 
We offer "1 month home trial" on all of our speakers, 
because speakers perform VERY differently in 10 feet room 
or 15 feet room or 20 feet room.. 

 
 
I apologize that this eBay listing is turning into
an article on 揌ow to choose a loudspeaker?/font>
but based on the large number of questions that I have been getting from eBay members,
I believe that this eBay listing will provide
useful 揵uying tips?for eBay members (even if they decide to buy from other eBay sellers),
and help eBay members make a better , more informed buying decision,
and maybe save some money.
If I can convince eBay members that
I and the Audio Engineers designing the speakers
know more about speakers
than "experts" in internet forums and reviewers in Hi Fi magazine (who seldom recommend any "new" products sold on eBay),
then eBay members might bid on our eBay listings (so that eBay and I make some profit)
Please ask your friends to visit and read this interesting eBay listing.
Even if your friends are not an eBay members, they are welcomed to read this interesting eBay listing for free.  If your friends are not in a rush, they are also welcome to look at many of our other interesting eBay listings, and thousands of eBay listing from other eBay members.
QUESTION = 
An eBay member asked me for technical specifications, and I wrote a long reply,
politely explaining that the "typical" technical specification is incomplete, misleading and almost useless.
A number of eBay members read my explanation
and then asked me for the technical specification for efficiency.
ANSWER = 
Technical Specifications (Part II)
If you are an Audio Engineer ,
who can "read between the line" and "poke holes" in the specification,
then
HUGE amount of technical specifications (with nothing hidden) will be very useful.
If you have the 搕ypical?搈inimal?specification from the manufacturer or reviews in Hi Fi magazines,
with a lot of IMPORTANT technical specification missing,
then the 搕ypical?搈inimal?specification is incomplete and misleading.
The only thing that you can do with
the 搕ypical?搈inimal?specification from Hi Fi magazine or manufacturer,
is to use the specification as 搉egative indicators?/font>, this means
1. Be wary of speaker with terrible frequency response (at 1 watt or 100 watts ?)
2. Be wary of speaker with terrible distortion (at 1 watt or 100 watts ?) ( at what frequency ? )
3. Be wary of speaker with terrible 揥aterfall curve?(Cumulative Spectral Decay) (at 1 watt or 100 watts)
( CONTINUOS high power will heat up "Ferrofluid", reduces the the viscosity, cause the impedance peak at the tweeter's fundamental resonance to reappear, and produces different measurements, power handling, etc.)
( What about the information below 150 Hertz, to expose any "boomy bass" ? )
4. Be wary of speaker with VERY HIGH efficiency (which usually cause HUGE problems in other areas.)
5. Be wary of claims that the speaker can produce 120 dB (at 1000 Hertz or 50 Hertz ?)
    Measuring how loud a speaker can go at 1000 Hertz is a waste of time,
    because a man shouting as loudly as possible can only produce 20 times less than 1 watt !
    The loudest sounds on CD or records are usually the bass instruments.
How long can you listen at 120 dB before you damage your hearing PERMANENTLY ?
Please click here to read "How can 100 watt amplifiers can damage your hearing ?" at our special website designed for our eBay auctions
6. Be wary of using 5 inch speakers or 6 inch speakers or 2 pieces of 6 inch speakers in 20 feet rooms (you need bigger, more powerful speakers)
7. Be wary of reviews that do not have any measurements. ( Professional reviewers must do some basic measurements, to make sure that there is nothing seriously wrong with the speakers.)
The hearing of an OLD experienced reviewer, who have been listening to LOUD music for many years, is not as good as a YOUNG woman.
On the other hand, a young reviewer might not have sufficient experience to realise that the "huge amount of treble detail" or "lots of powerful bass" is caused by a "huge peaks in the frequency response" !
A "blind panel review" by MANY people + some basic measurements is 100 time more "balanced" 
Please look at the measurement in Stereophile magazines (some reviews are posted on the internet, FREE of charge) and OLD copies of English Hi Fi magazines.
Sophisticated measuring equipment like Clio (+ matching microphone) only cost a few hundred pounds,
and can be used in a ordinary largish room, so I hope that professional reviewers will buy and use equipment like these. ( Professional reviewers must do some basic measurements, to make sure that there is nothing seriously wrong with the speakers.)
8. Be wary of "overly simplified" measurements in Hi Fi magazines. 
    "Oversimplifying" measurements means that the "incomplete" measurements, is even more incomplete !
    For example, if somebody say that the the bass is +10%, and there isn't a frequency response curve,
    please ask
   "Did the reviewer do the measurement with inappropriate GBP 30 hand held sound level meter or an inappropriate spectral analyser in an inappropriate room (not an echoic) ?"
"If the reviewer's sophisticated equipment has produced a proper frequency response curve, why won't the editor publish the frequency response curve ?"

 
 
QUESTION from eBay member on 1 August 2005 = Lim, .....customer name....  here (KT88 High end).
I have a set of .... famous horns speakers ... at the moment that I am selling (bandwidth too limited for me). Would the new speakers I see you advertising make a good replacement?. I know you say specs are meaningless but things like efficiency (sensitivity?) and load are nice to know !!, as are physical dimensions.
Thanks.
ANSWER = Thank you for buying our amplifier.
Please do NOT chose a loudspeakers based on the CLAIMED sensitivity.
Most claims for "high sensitivity" is usually at ONE PEAK in the frequency response curve,
and NOT the "average"
It is VERY DIFFICULT to get the "ultimate sound quality" from VERY high efficiency speakers. 
The correct recommendation is
If you are using the SAME cone, the SAME voice coil, and the SAME everything,
and the speaker system (including box and crossover network) has a damping factor Q of 1,
AND THE MAGNETIC GAP CAN COPE WITH A LARGE INCREASE IN MAGNETISM,
then it is probably a good idea to increase the size of the magnet
to give higher efficiency and reduce damping factor Q to 0.7 (or even 0.5, depending on the listening room, position of speakers, etc).
Unfortunately, the correct recommendation gets simplified to 
an extremely misleading , wrong Hi Fi Myth of "High efficiency speakers are better",
which is NOT the correct recommendation.
In MOST (but not all cases), VERY high efficiency speakers usually have serious flaws.
Why do VERY high efficiency speaker usually have serious flaws ?
One way of increasing the efficiency of a speaker is to increase the size of the magnet.
Unfortunately, the magnet is the most expensive part of the speakers,
so most manufactures do not like this idea !
Even if the manufacturer decide to "bolt on" a bigger magnet,
the magnetic gap is probably already near saturation,
so you need a larger diameter voice coil, pole piece , new machinery to assemble the speaker, etc.
So, most manufacturers do not like this idea.
One way of making a speaker more efficiency ís to make the cone lighter !
Unfortunately, the lighter cone is weaker, so there is more "cone break up", more uncontrolled resonance, more uneven frequency response,  and long lingering resonance that takes forever to die away on a "Waterfall curve" (Cumulative Spectral Decay).
In many case, the uncontrolled resonance of the light cone is so bad that it might produce huge peaks of 10 dB.  This is great for the "typical" specification, because the loudspeaker manufacturer can "inflate" the sensitivity by 10 dB
Use manufacturer specification as "negative indicator"
Please ask the manufacturer of VERY sensitive speakers for
1. frequency response at 1 watt
2. frequency response at 100 watt (which usually show the bass is disappears, due to the limited Xmax, usually needed for high efficiency)
3. "Waterfall curve"
---------------
One way of making a speaker produce louder bass is to increase the "height" of the voice coil.  So, if you make the voice coil 2 millimetre taller, the Xmax increase a bit, and the speaker cone will be able to move a bit more before distorting.
Unfortunately, this trick to make the speaker produce louder bass,
will make the speaker less efficient
Conversely, if you want to make the speaker more efficiency, you can reduce the height of the voice coil (assuming the voice coil is considerably taller than height of the magnetic gap).
Unfortunately, this trick to make the speaker more efficient,
reduce the power handling for bass.
This is a problem, because the loudest notes on your CD or record is usually the bass drum or bass guitar.
This is a problem, because a WELL DESIGNED CD player has MUCH MORE DEEP BASS than records, because there is a limit to how much bass you can put on a record, before one "wiggly" record groove "overflows" into the next "wiggly" record grove. 
Always use a  WELL DESIGNED CD player to test LOUD DEEP BASS. Try Ms Janet Jackson or our eBay listing of "Sound Check II" test CD.
The other trick to CLAIM high sensitivity is to use a horn.
This trick works very well for the UPPER bass,
but it is a terrible idea for DEEP bass.
For good quality, low coloration, good quality bass to 20 Hertz,
the mouth of the horn need to be about 37 feet in diameter (about two third of ,
the 56 feet wavelength of a 20 hertz sound wave)
The "typical" 1 foot mouth of horn speakers is 37 times too small !
-----------
After designing a very efficiency bass unit with high sensitive,
how do we design a very efficiency midrange with high sensitivity
Our Yamaha NS-1000M does this trick by using a 3 and a half inch voice coil, and a magnet large enough for a 12 inch woofer, and making a rigid strong cone that is very light, by melting nd VAPORIZING exotic BERYLLIUM metal in a VACUUM.
Since most loudspeaker manufacturer CANNOT melt and VAPORIZE metal in a vacuum, they have to use to use other cheaper methods.
One method is to avoid using the midrange altogether !
Force the 10 inch woofer or 12 inch woofer to go up to 1 kilohertz or even 3 kilohertz.
 A good "high end" technic is that the frequency response of drive unit must be "flat" to one octave above (or below) the cross over point.
So, we need a VERY efficient 10 inch woofer or VERY efficiency 12 inch woofer to have a "flat frequency response to 2 kilohertz or even 6 kilohertz. Hum ...... Has anybody seen such a drive unit ?
Even if you do get such drive unit,
the polar response of such a large drive unit at 1 kilohertz will be lousy.
If you you move your head 45 degrees off axis,
parts of the human voice will disappear ! (is that natural?)
The other solution is to put the midrange in a horn.
Can anybody design a midrange in a horn without all sorts of horn  resonance ?
How do you persuade ALL the sound from the cone / dome to arrive at the mouth of the horn AT THE SAME TIME ?
How do you get a reasonable polar response from a horn,
so that parts of the human voice will not disappear, when you move your head 45 degrees off axis ? (is that natural?)
Use manufacturers specifications as "negative indicators"
As the manufacture for as frequency response curves at 0 degrees, 30 degrees and 45 degrees off axis (horizontally, as well as vertically).
-------------
After designing a very efficiency bass unit with high sensitivity,
how do we design a very efficiency tweeter with high sensitivity
You face similar problems as I describe for a highly efficient midrange.
it is difficult enough to design a ""typical" tweeter with a  "flat frequency response" to 20 kilohertz.  There are too many expensive ?high?end tweeters with an audible 5 db peak. 
It is 100 times more difficult to make tweeters with "flat frequency response" to 20 kilohertz AND be VERY efficient AND handle lots of power.
Use manufacturers specifications as "negative indicators"
As the manufacture for as frequency response curves at 0 degrees, 30 degrees and 45 degrees off axis (horizontally, as well as vertically).
Please ask for the information at 1 watt.
Please ask for the information at 100 watts (or whatever power the speakers is CLAIMED to handle).
------------
What about certain "high efficiency" speakers that certain Hi Fi magazine rave about ?
Please look at frequency response curve of these "high efficiency" speakers.
It is a fundamental cornerstone of HIgh FIdelity that
HIgh FIdelity speakers should have a "flat" frequency response of + - 3 dB
What is the point of having "high efficiency"
if the frequency response is lousy ?
I hope that I have given you some good reasons to be cautious of speakers with VERY high sensitivity. 

 
 
 
QUESTION FROM EBAY MEMBER ON 1 AUGUST 2005 = Sorry forgot, room is 26 ft x 16 ft with a 10 ft opening to another room that is 16 ft x 14 ft at the end of one wall. Thanks. ...... PS I am also considering ...."High End" speaker with 12 inch woofer + 2 inch dome horn loaded...... 
ANSWER (PART 1)  =  How does our "High End" speakers compare with "High End" speaker with 12 inch woofer + 2 inch dome horn loaded ( Part 1 )
The most important sound on the CD of your favourite singer is the voice of your favourite singer.
To try and get the best possible reproduction of the voice of your favourite singer,
most MODERN SERIOUS (over GBP £ 5000) "High End" speakers have specialized "dedicated" midranges,
that produces most of the human voice.
The size of the specialized "dedicated" midranges "typically" ranges from 3 inch domes
to 5 inch cones (in a 6 inch metal frame)
It is very difficult to get "ultimate quality" midrange (up to 1100 hertz) from 12 inch woofers.
Most speaker designers would use the 12 inch woofer up to about 500 hertz. 
Sounds of about 500 Hertz to about 4 kilohertz are usually reproduced by a SMALLER specialized "dedicated" midranges.
Please listen to the voice of your favourite singer on
12 inch woofer + 2 inch dome horn loaded
versus
the 6 inch "dedicated" midrange on our speakers.
Please forget about fancy prose like "timing" or "speed" or "height of image".
Please ask yourself one simple question
Which speaker is better at tricking me into believing that
my favourite singer is in my room ?
The most important sound on the CD of your favourite singer
is the voice of your favourite singer.
ANSWER (PART 2)  =  How does our "High End" speakers compare with
"High End" speaker with 12 inch woofer + 2 inch dome horn loaded ( Part 2 )
Most modern Hi Fi enthusiasts expect their speakers to go up to 20 kilohertz.
Most modern speakers try to achieve this by using TINY 1 inch domes.
It become more difficult to design the larger 2 inch dome
to have a FLAT frequency response to reach 20 kilohertz.
When you horn load the 2 inch dome,
the problem of getting a FLAT response to 20 kilohertz become even more difficult.
How do you persuade
ALL the sound from the 2 inch dome
to arrive at the throat of the horn AT THE SAME TIME ?
If you use a complicated "phasing plug",
will the "phasing plug" block some of the "delicate" 20 kilohertz sound wave ?
If you use a complicated "phasing plug",
will there be a resonance in the cavity between the dome and the "phasing plug" ?
Please use a recording of cymbals + a WELL DESIGNED valve amplifier to audition
2 inch dome horn loaded (expensive, but directional + difficult to get FLAT frequency response to 20 kilohertz) ( Are the cymbals too quiet ? Should the cymbals be louder, that you cannot hear it ? ) ( Does the cymbals disappear, when you stand up or move 3 feet to the left or right ? )
versus
WELL DESIGNED 1 inch dome tweeter (need not be expensive)
versus
"fashionable" BIG RIBBON TWEETER (expensive, but directional + difficult to get FLAT frequency response to 20 kilohertz) ( Are the cymbals too quiet ? Should the cymbals be louder ? ) ( Does the cymbals disappear, when you stand up or move 3 feet to the left or right ? )
versus
our one and a half inch dome tweeter + "fashionable" SMALL RIBBON SUPER TWEETER (Small means better, more even dispersion of sound.  Small means should reach 20 kiloHertz and beyond, into the ultrasonic range. This should please some DVD Audio owners who wants tweeter to extend beyond 20 kiloHertz.  A young woman should be able to hear up to 20 kiloHertz.)
You must audition these tweeters AT THE SAME TIME (We forget sound VERY QUICKLY, so "one speaker" demo rooms is not a good idea.  A much better idea is "2 speaker" demo room + a switch to switch between the 2 speakers. The tiny imaginary difference caused by the switch is 1000 less than the HUGE HUGE HUGE difference between speakers. )
I can guarantee you that
the difference between these tweeters will be HUGE HUGE HUGE.
What is less certain, is which "style" of treble will you prefer.
This is coming from a guy who says "stop going on and on about cables"
because the difference between cables is so small,
that I am not sure if there really is a difference or it is my imagination !
So, if I say there is a HUGE difference,
you will hear the difference !
When deciding on which "style" of treble that you prefer,
please consider the difference between ......
1. The treble is not irritating because there is NO treble !
2. The treble is not irritating, because the treble is sweet,
    there are no peaks in the frequency response,
    the waterfall curve (cumulative spectral decay) show a rapid decay of most of the treble frequency.

 
These speakers are 揳lmost new?and have 2 years guarantee.
The amplifier is new and has 2 years guarantee

Money back guarantee (less considerable shipping cost, with 30 days) that most people (including experienced valve enthusiast + big ribbon tweeter owners) will prefer this combination of speakers and amplifier to GBP 10000000000 systems hyped up in Hi Fi magazines.

This auction is for the speakers AND our famous "KT88 Triode Connection - High End" that most experienced valve enthusiast will agree sound better than GBP 3000 "Ultra Linear valve amplifiers".

I think that these speakers are TOO REVEALING for "Class B" or "Class A" transistor amplifiers or "Ultra Linear" valve / tube amplifiers.
These VERY REVEALING speakers will expose the inadequate bass slam of the "typical" "Single Ended" valve /tube amplifiers

If you are the ORIGINAL owner of one of our valve amplifiers, and you are definitely going to buy the speakers on 1 month home trial, please tell us, and we can relist the speakers without the amplifier.
 --------------------------
Anybody who has spoken to me will know that I am VERY fussy about speakers.

Anybody talking to me and claiming to own ?high?end? "2 way" speakers with 6 inch woofer + tweeter
will get an explanation of

"If expensive high end 6 inch speakers are so good,
why do the manufacturers make bigger, MORE expensive, speakers ?"

"Are the manufacturers saying that their expensive 6 inch speakers
are better than their MORE expensive speakers with 10 inch or 12 inch woofers ?"
 

MONEY BACK GUARANTEE (LESS SUBSTANTIAL SHIPPING COST, WITHIN 30 DAY) that This combination of speaker and amplifier sounds 1000 times better than the most expensive "2 way" or "2 and half way" 6 inch speakers, hyped up in Hi Fi magazines.

MONEY BACK GUARANTEE (LESS SUBSTANTIAL SHIPPING COST, WITHIN 30 DAY) that This combination of speaker and amplifier sounds 100 times better than the most expensive up "2 way" or "2 and half way" 6 inch speakers + the most expensive "hyped up" subwoofer(s) , hyped up in Hi Fi magazines.

If anybody want me to describe the difference in sound between this combination of speaker and amp versus "2 way " 6 inch speakers + subwoofer, please ask me, but it will be like comparing a 50 c.c. moped with a high performance "no compromise" sports car.
------------------------
I auditioned these speakers with our WELL DESIGNED "Triode Connected" amplifiers
I WANT TO STRESS THAT MY COMMENTS ONLY APPLY TO  OUR WELL DESIGNED "TRIODE CONNECTED" VALVE / TUBE AMPLIFIERS OR "300B TRIODE PUSH PULL" VALVE / TUBE AMPLIFIER WITH VERY SWEET TREBLE, WITHOUT LOSING THE TREBLE DETAILS.
My "Golden Ears" think that these speakers are TOO REVEALING for "Class B" or "Class A" transistor amplifiers or "Ultra Linear" valve / tube amplifiers.
These VERY REVEALING speakers will expose the inadequate bass slam of the "typical" "Single Ended" valve /tube amplifiers
----------------------
What I am going to write will sound unbelievable, so I better describe the specialized "dedicated" 6 inch midrange speakers. Please forget about the nonsensical hype that you have to make cone out of modern material like carbon fibre or glass fibre or polypropylene or Kevlar®.  When you look at the "Young Modulus" AND density, beryllium (e.g. 3 inch dome in Yamaha NS-1000M) is the best material, and paper is usually the 2nd best.  I do not have the information for all of the modern material , but based on my incomplete information Beryllium and paper are superior to modern materials (that I have data on).

Ignoring some "fashionable" Hi Fi magazines sensationalizing any thing that is new, why do think that modern materials are better than paper ?

Ignoring some "fashionable" Hi Fi magazines sensationalizing any thing that is new, why do think that loudspeaker manufactures have been using paper cones for the last 50 years ?

Ignoring some "fashionable" Hi Fi magazines sensationalizing any thing that is new, why do think that most speaker manufacturer do NOT use carbon fibre, for their EXPENSIVE SERIOUS (over GBP 5000) "High End" speakers ?
 

The 6 inch midrange speakers seem to made of paper.  The rear of the cone is very rough (looks like the very rough sandpaper). This implies that the paper has NOT be pressed very hard, which should produce a thicker cone, which is structurally better (for the same weight) with better damping. The front of the cone is very smooth, and coated with shiny transparent "plastic ky" material , probably to strengthen and dampen the paper.  The "cone surround" looks like a rubber material, which should be very good at absorbing / damping unwanted vibrations. (This is 100 times more sensible than leaving out the cone surround, and forcing the cone to "break up" when producing sound). The cone does not have a dust cap. The pole piece is extended to look like the tip of a 29 millimetre bullet. Presumable this is to help to correct the phase of the sound. Although I like a dust cap to keep out the dust, I can see the advantage if you are designing an "ultimate" midrange. The "typical" dust cap is a different shape / strength to the rest of the cone, so "cone break up" and the :"break up" of the dust cap will be different.  Do away with the dust cap, and you do away with the problem of the "break up" of the dust cap, and you can concentrate on reducing / damping the "cone break up"

I apologize for going on and on this 6 inch "Midrange cone", but if I need to convince you that the midrange is a very complicated design, and explain how the designer is trying to reduce / dampen "cone break up" and achieve "position motion" with a strong and rigid cone, but also low in weight and well dampen  with the "plastic" coating and "rubbery " cone surround and lightly pressed "paper".
, .  This is a stark contrast to OTHER designers who leave out the "rubbery" cone surround, and produce a EXPENSIVE midrange that can only produce sound by "breaking up" the cone !  I strongly recommend that you audition this midrange against EXPENSIVE midrange without "rubbery" cone surround.

----------------------------
If you can understand what I said about the complicated , sophisticated design of the midrange, you might believe the unbelievable thing that I am about the say ......
Human voice on this sophisticated midrange is 5 times more believable than human voices on my electrostatic spacers (which many people consider to be the best electrostatic speaker) ! Human voice on my electrostatic speakers are good, but it is not 100% believable because my "best" electrostatic speakers are not powerful to reproduce the louder part of a "life size" human voice. The louder part of human voice on my "best" electrostatic speakers just stop getting louder, but does not seem to distort viciously.   Electrostatic speakers are easily damaged by powerful amplifiers. You will notice this AUDIBLE "compression" if you are used to "Studio Monitors".  You will NOT notice this AUDIBLE "compression" if you are used to the "typical" "2 way" 6 inch speakers.
Our 6 inch midranges can EASILY produce "life size" voices at 8 feet WITHOUT ANY AUDIBLE DISTORTION , WITHOUT ANY COMPRESSION.
------
The crossover tries to keep bass notes below 150 Hertz away from the 6 inch midrange, so the same proportion of voice coil should stay in the magnetic gap, and keep the distortion low.
The electrostatic field in an electrostatic speakers changes by the square of the distances the moment the diaphragm move, the force changes , so you get a fair amount of distortion.
Subjectively, the specialized 6 inch speakers sound like it has 10 times less distortion than my "best" electrostatic speakers
-----------
Decay (the ending of a musical note).
 One advantage of our "best" electrostatic speakers
 is that sound dies away quickly, But I can still hear the colouration of the diaphragm material, If you take a VERY thin sheet of plastic, and shake it, you get a "Plastic ky sound". I can hear this "plastic ky sound" on my electrostatic speakers.  This "plastic ky" sound" make my "best" electrostatic sound dies away SLOWER than the 6 inch midrange.  The "felted paper" does NOT have an audible "signature". I CANNOT hear the "felted paper' sound of the 6 inch cone.
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Attack, ( the start of a musical note) --- As expected, the attack of my exotic 3 and half inch BERYLLIUM metal cone on my Yamaha NS-1000M m with 3 and half inch voice coil and magnets big enough for a 12 inch woofer  is better than the 6 inch midrange,  But the "attack" of the 6 inch midrange is more than adequate, and produce realistic lifelike sound.
What is surprising is that the attack of the 6 inch midrange is far superior to my "best" electrostatic. In order to get good "attack" the cone must be able to move quickly. this means a light , strong , rigid cone driven by a powerful motor (voice coil). It is true that the diaphragm of my electrostatic speakers are light, but the "motor" of the electrostatic field is rather weak. (Please remember that Acceleration =  Force divided by Mass.)   If you rub a plastic comb though your hair, you can generate sparks, and thousand of volts, and pick up TINY pieces of paper.  The magnet of the 6 inch speakers is powerful enough to pick heavy pliers, small hammer, etc.   Paper is probably the 2nd strongest / most rigid material WHEN YOU CONSIDER THE WEIGHT. ( Beryllium is better.) So the paper cone of the 6 inch cone is more rigid than most of modern materials.  This also helps the attack.
If the cone is too soft, the voice coil could move (by a tiny amount) , and compress / bend the cone material (near the voice coil), so the REST of the cone does
NOT move, so there is no sound.  If the cone is too soft, the voice coil have to move by a reasonable amount, to overcome this "compression/bending" problem, before the cone move to produce a sound. So, you do NOT hear the "start" of the sound from "soft" plastic cones,
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Please forget about the fancy prose of "timing" , "speed" and "depth of imaging"

The most important sound on the CD of your favourite singer is the voice of your favourite singer.

MONEY BACK GUARANTEE (LESS CONSIDERABLE SHIPPING COST, WITHIN 30 DAYS ) THAT THIS COMBINATION OF SPEAKERS AND AMPLIFIER WILL PRODUCE THE MOST BELIEVE HUMAN VOICES THAT YOU HAVE EVER HEARD.

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Hooray, our SMALL ribbon tweeter sound much better than BIG ribbon tweeter !

Most people use tiny 1 inch dome tweeter for the high frequency.
Most people will agree that 5 inch cones are too big for a tweeter.

Like wise, 5 inch ribbon are too big for a tweeter, to reach 20 kilohertz (and beyond, to please some DVD Audio enthusiast), with good dispersion.  (Does the cymbals disappear, if you move your head 3 feet to the left or right or stand up ?) (Is the cymbals too quiet, and should be louder ?)

Please consider the difference between
1. The treble is not irritating, because there is NO treble.
2. The treble is not irritating, because the treble is sweet, without losing the treble detail.

The SMALL 8 millimetres wide by about 2 inch long ribbon sound very good when used with our "Triode Connected" amplifier. But, I suspect that the SMALL ribbon tweeter are "too revealing" for transistor amplifiers or GBP 3000 "ultra Linear" valve / tube amplifiers.
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Bass from the 12 inch woofer is a huge box is very good. Like ALL serious (over GBP 5000) speakers, with extended deep bass, you have to use them far away from the walls. Absolutely no boom, if you pull them far away from the wall. Some speakers with 2 pieces of 6 inch woofer , will boom, to try and impress you with "false" bass. The bas from these 12 inch woofer in huge boxes are very well controlled, absolute no boom, deep, powerful, detailed and you can hear the bass guitar playing a tune, and going up and down the scales. With 6 inch speaker and subwoofer, you have problem telling the difference between a kick bass drum and an electric guitar.  This 12 inch woofer in the huge box makes the difference blatantly obvious.

If you look at the "bass reflex port" you will find a mesh covering the port. The mesh act as a resistance to the air flow, and "dampens the port.  This is not a new idea,  Many years ago, and English manufacturer packed "drinking straw" into the "bass reflex port" to act as "resistor" and dampen the port.  I applause both the speaker designer of both the companies, for taking steps to control any bass boom, with a PRECISE amount of "resistance".  I am less impressed with speaker designer who give you a "foam bung" to ?fix? their boomy bass.
 Unlike some Hi Fi magazines, I am not impressed with loudspeaker manufacturer charging me hundreds of pound for "boomy" speakers, and giving me 20 pence worth of "foam bungs" to TRY and cure design faults, that causes the boomy bass !   I have tried these "foam bungs", and I can assure that 20 pence of "foam bungs" cannot cure the lousy bass !
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P
Our SMALL

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I am pleased
If you have heard BIG ribbon tweeter before, and you might like the "not irritating" treble, but

I have to take back some of my rude remarks about 6 inch speakers + tweeter, and say that 6 inch speaker + tweeter is fine JUST AS LONG AS YOU ONLY YOU USE THE 6 INCH SPEAKER FOR UPPER BASS ABOVE 150 HERTZ (and use a 12 inch speakers below 150 Hertz), AND USE A B-I-G-G-E-R 34 MILLIMETRE (instead of the "typical" 24 millimetre) TWEETER TO WORK DOWN TO 2200 HERTZ (because 6 inch speakers have problems in achieving a FLAT frequency response to 7000 Hertz , which about twice the "typical" crossover frequency)
 

I auditioned these speakers with our WELL DESIGNED "Triode Connected" amplifiers
I WANT TO STRESS THAT MY COMMENTS ONLY APPLY TO  OUR WELL DESIGNED "TRIODE CONNECTED" VALVE / TUBE AMPLIFIERS OR "300B TRIODE PUSH PULL" VALVE / TUBE AMPLIFIER WITH VERY SWEET TREBLE, WITHOUT LOSING THE TREBLE DETAILS.
I think that these speakers are TOO REVEALING for "Class B" or "Class A" transistor amplifiers or "Ultra Linear" valve / tube amplifiers.
These VERY REVEALING speakers will expose the inadequate bass slam of the "typical" "Single Ended" valve /tube amplifiers
 
 
 

 
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